[RE]

I had a minor bit of success tonight and actually got the printer to show up on my computer in the Orca-Flashforge slicer software that's supposed to run the machine.  It's still not visible in the Devices list for Windows though.

The next step after that it asks for is for you to register the device.  When I tried to do that, each time I got a popup telling me Registration Failed.  The explanation on that from the support geek is that their Flashforge server is unstable and I should try again later.       There may be a work around to that using a LAN connection, I'll work on trying that tomorrow, I'm shot for today and thoroughly pissed off.

I'm researching completely redoing the machine with a different controller board from another manufacturer.



All of these 3d printers use the same type of bus cable that goes from the board to each of the various motors and the heating element.  Exactly how it's wired though can differ so I need a circuit diagram which I am trying to get from them.  I really don't want to do this because it means a bunch of soldering and if I do it I void the warrantee and I will get no help from support.  However, so far their help hasn't helped and it is still just a big useless paperweight the way it is.

I may yet get it to work the way they want it to work with their software connected to their server so I'm not trying a ground up rebuild yet.  That kind of shit is a little above my pay grade as an electronics and computer tinkerer, so I'd rather not do that.  The only other choice though would be to box it up and return it to Amazon, but I don't have the original packing material, I had to dispose of it as I do not have room to keep big boxes around for returns.  Returning it would be its own pain in the ass.  The last unfortunate possibility is I may end up eating a $300 loss on it.  However, the hardware is really good and I know it can work with thee right controller.

My timeline for PolyPandora now is in major jeopardy.  If I can't get it running soon, I will probably have to set everything back several months at least if not a whole year. 

RE

[K-Dog]

Seems all you have to do now is get it registered.  All the board does is receive a file over the USB cable.  It loads the file onto a memory card you should plug into the top right connector.  Then the board will run the file loaded on the memory card causing the printer to do it's thing.

[RE]

Well, after 2 weeks of striking out, I finally got a hit tonight and got the printer communicating and trying to print.

Sadly however, even though it did all the appropriate dancing, nothing came out.

I do think though now I will eventually conquer this problem.  Persistence pays off.

RE

[RE]

OK, the extruder nozzle was clogged.  Got that cleared, tried again.  This time it squirted out the plastic, but it just made a pile of squiggles not resembling the .stl file at all.  This is progress tho.

RE

[RE]

Well, I got a partial print of a tetrahedron, which is the closest thing to success yet.

However, besides not completing the entire object, on my next print job it clogged again, this time right in the middle of printing.  I can understand it clogging if the print head cools between print jobs, but not clogging right in the middle of one.  This happened yet again on the next try after clearing it.

Sent of another missive to support noting my displeasure with this piece of equipment.  This part is not because my networking skills are substandard.  The hardware is not operating properly.  Maybe it's the temperature, but according to the screen it's right.

This is a fucking pain in the ass.

RE

[monsta666]

A live demonstration on why 3D printing never took off. I did hear the technology is very finicky and even hardcore geeks who are inclined to tinkering and having more patience than most have trouble with these contraceptions. Let us hope you get it to work before the collapse of civilization. By the sound of things it could be a close call...

[RE]

A live demonstration on why 3D printing never took off. I did hear the technology is very finicky and even hardcore geeks who are inclined to tinkering and having more patience than most have trouble with these contraceptions. Let us hope you get it to work before the collapse of civilization. By the sound of things it could be a close call...

Yea, Kdog warned me in advance that it was not a turn-key user-friendly technology.  He worked with it some at his old job and was one of the few geeks there who could get it to work at all.  However, to make prototypes of my designs that are good enough for demonstrations, it was either this or a laser cutter to get accurate enough cuts, angles and tolerances.  Here in the Gulag they won't let me have a laser cutter because of the fumes they give off when cutting thru stuff, so I had to risk it.  I got a good deal at $300 for it so it's not a major financial loss if I can't get it to work, but I'm not sure how I'm going to move forward with my bizness if I can't overcome the problems.  I haven't given up yet, but I sure am frustrated.

RE

[K-Dog]

It took a while to develop the skill to use a piece of paper as a feeler gauge to space the print head above the print table correctly.  I had to feel all four corners and adjust a couple of Allen screws to get the table leveled and the print head spacing right.  Post-it-note paper worked well.  Not the sticky part.  Your machine should have a similar procedure.  There was a menu setting that moved the print head to the corners.

[RE]

Well, I tried a few more times to print, and each time some problem occurred before the print was complete.  Here's a pic of 3 partially completed parts.



They offered to replace the print head, but I told them this printer blows chunks and I want it replaced with a different model, the Adventurer 4 Pro.

There are problems besides the print head getting clogged so I don't think replacing it will be sufficient.

I have made 3 more attempts to print objects, and not once has the printer completed an object before it detaches itself from the plate after about 20 minutes of printing.  Attached is a pic of 3 partially completed print jobs.  This printer is a piece of junk.

I would like to replace this printer with a different model, the Adventurer 4 Pro.  I will return the A5M in the packaging the A4P comes in.  If the A4P actually works, I will pay the difference in price, which is about $150 I have seen advertized.

I am attaching also the invoice from Amazon.

The A4P has been around longer so hopefully is better tested.  It also has a glass enclosed print bed, and my CAD program works with it directly so I shouldn't have to shuttle between programs importing and exporting .stl files..

We'll see if they go for the exchange.

RE

[K-Dog]

You should wait until we know what printer made Luigi's gun.  That one worked pretty good.

    Last Updated: 10/20/2024

Glock 19 Frame dd19.2 STL Files
The FMDA dd19.2 3D Printed Glock Pistol Frame


Download

3D Printed Glock 19 Build Kit

Husky Armory's 3D Printed Glock 19 (FMDA DD19.2) kit includes everything you need to complete your 3D printed Glock frame.

Includes:

- Glock 19 'Iditarod' Slide Kit

- Lower Parts Kit

- Standard Glock 19 Sights

- Aves DD19.2 Rail Kit

- Aves Glock 19 Locking Block

By next Christmas the orange man will have so thoroughly boned America that the right kit will sell faster than a Chinese factory can make them.  There is your 'capitalist' adventure.

Then you can be like this guy.    Once you be rich.

[RE]

What, no silencer?

RE

[K-Dog]

A carbon fiber cylinder filled with thick printed washers.  Twenty of them with holes larger than the projectile. Between the printed washers rubber washers made from a bicycle inner tube have an outside diameter that matches the tube.  The inner diameter matches the projectile diameter.  The printed washers have randomly oriented gas channels to absorb the back pressure and sound radiating from the hole the projectile passes through.  Two regular washers seal the ends with holes that match the plastic washer holes diameter.

Roll your own.

[RE]

Sounds like a good muffler design.  You also need an attachment system to the gun.  I prefer the Bayonet style mounts to the screw mounts.  They're quicker to get on.

RE

[RE]

We have liftoff!

My first 100% successful 3D print!



The above is a hex connector for my PolyPandora Geodesic Domes.  Mini-domees are one of the things you can build with PolyPandora building sets you cannot do with LEGO or any other building toy on the market.  One of the nuumerous novel aspects of the system that allows the budding architects and engineers to build quality models at home of pretty much any real world structures.  Well, not everything, I haven't figured out everything I need for Suspension Bridges yet.  Those were a favorite of mine when I was teaching. having kids design and build model bridges.

Now the negatives, which are minor.  The thing takes forever just to print one tiny part.  The connector you see in the pic is about 2" in diameter at the very end of the spokes.  It took almost 1.5 hours to print.  A dome takes about 60 of these connectors, so just one demo model would take close to a week if I could keep the machine running 24/7. lol.  These connectors though are just one of numerous parts and pieces.  So you can pretty much forget about doing much bizness with a 3D printer.  Looking at all the parts for the Ghost Glock, one of those has to take a few days to print up for sure.   At least with guns though you have a big profit margin, you can sell it for say $500.
  Most things though you won't be able to sell for nearly that much.

However, while not good for any type of retail biz, it can be used to make custom parts for old stuff that would work if you just had this or that part that is no longer available.  Also good for making the molds to use with a roto or injection molding apparatus.

Best use I think is if you have kids, you can make just about any kind of toy, and they can make stuff for themselves  too, if they are say 10 or so and like to tinker.  I would have been in heaven if I had one as a kid.  Not too bad now either, now that I got it working.

RE

[TDoS]

My first 100% successful 3D print!

Good deal.

Now the negatives, which are minor.  The thing takes forever just to print one tiny part.

You have big social functions, dance parties and meetings with national political figures it will interfer with? Seems like what you've got is time.

Best use I think is if you have kids, you can make just about any kind of toy, and they can make stuff for themselves  too, if they are say 10 or so and like to tinker.  I would have been in heaven if I had one as a kid.  Not too bad now either, now that I got it working.
RE

How much basic market research have you done to see if these toys bump into some concept already out there that might cause a patent problem? Not the legal patent angle, just similarities. Just for the hell of it I did some googling for like building shapes with toys for kids, and while nothing looked exactly like yours, there are quite a few snap together parts/patterns/objects type things out there that appear similar, although none I could find that were exactly the same.